There is a number on the front page of your Kansas homeowners policy that says $1,000, and there is a second number buried further down that says something like "2% of Coverage A." The first one is the deductible everybody talks about. The second one is the deductible that will actually apply to the claim you are most likely to file.
In a coastal state, the percentage deductible waits for a hurricane. In Kansas it waits for a Tuesday in May.
Kansas sits in the hail and tornado corridor, and severe convective storms — hail, straight-line wind, tornado — are the loss driver that sets prices here. There is no hurricane, no coastline, no wildfire crisis, and no earthquake market to speak of. One peril family does essentially all the work, and it has reorganized the Kansas homeowners policy around itself: a separate percentage deductible for wind and hail, roof settlement that quietly shifts from replacement cost to depreciated value as your roof ages, and premiums that run well above the national average in a state with a below-average cost of living.
This guide walks through what that costs, which deductible applies to which claim, how much coverage you actually need in a state where rebuild cost routinely exceeds market value, and what happens if no carrier will write you. It is written for someone who has never read a policy front to back.
A note before you start: everything below is general information about how homeowners insurance works in Kansas, not personalized insurance, legal, or financial advice. Policy forms, rates, and underwriting rules vary by carrier and by your individual circumstances — county, roof age, construction, claims history, and credit all change the answer materially. For coverage specific to your property, talk to a licensed Kansas insurance agent; for regulatory questions or complaints, the Kansas Insurance Department is the state authority.
1. What home insurance actually costs in Kansas
The reference figure is $4,868 a year for $300,000 of dwelling coverage with a $1,000 deductible.
"Dwelling coverage" — labeled Coverage A on your declarations page — is the maximum the policy will pay to repair or rebuild the structure of your home. It is the anchor number for the entire policy, and, as Section 2 explains, it is also the number your wind/hail deductible is calculated from. $300,000 is a reference tier used so states can be compared on the same basis. Section 4 explains why it is probably too low for a Kansas home.
Against the roughly $2,872 national average at that same $300,000 tier, Kansas runs about 1.7 times the national figure — roughly $1,996 a year more for the same nominal coverage. That is a meaningful gap in a state whose median home price is $304,048, near the national middle. Kansans are not paying more because their houses are more valuable. They are paying more because of the sky.
The sources disagree, and you should know by how much
Three independent 2026 rate tables quote Kansas on the same $300,000 dwelling basis, and they do not agree:
- $5,289 at $300,000 dwelling / $300,000 liability / $1,000 deductible
- $5,260 at $300,000 dwelling / $100,000 liability / $1,000 deductible, built from over 37 million quotes across 134 carriers
- $4,056 at $300,000 dwelling / $1,000 deductible, for a 1980-construction home with good credit and no prior claims
Two of the three land within $30 of each other at roughly $5,270. The third comes in about 23% lower. That third figure is not wrong — its methodology is stated and defensible, and its assumptions about construction year and credit are simply more favorable than the other two. So all three are averaged rather than one being picked.
The practical instruction: read $4,868 as the middle of a genuine $4,000 to $5,300 range, not as a quote. If your renewal comes in at $4,200, you are not being cheated. If it comes in at $5,400, you are not necessarily being gouged either. The spread between those numbers is mostly about your roof, your county, your claims history, and your credit — all four of which you can do something about, and three of which are covered in Section 7.
One further figure is worth naming so you are not confused if you find it: a fourth national table puts Kansas at $3,856 — but at $350,000 of dwelling coverage. A lower premium at higher coverage is not a lower estimate of the same thing; it indicates a different quoting basis entirely, so it is not comparable at this tier and is not blended in.
The trend
Kansas premiums are running about +4% year over year, tracking the national direction almost exactly — the same national projection is +4%, to a $3,057 average.
A caution on the dollar levels in that trend series: it prices policies at each state's average dwelling limit rather than at a fixed $300,000, and it assumes a 5% wind deductible, a 2% hail deductible, and $1,000 for everything else. Its Kansas dollar figures ($3,311 in 2025 rising to a projected $3,440 by end-2026) are therefore not comparable to the $4,868 reference above. Only the percentage change is used here, and the percentage is unaffected by the level difference.
The honest read: Kansas is expensive, it is getting more expensive at roughly the national pace, and there is no state-specific shock in the near-term data. What there is, is a structural shift in how the policy is written — which is Section 2.
2. The deductible that actually applies to your most likely claim
This is the most important section in the guide, and if you read nothing else, read this.
Two deductibles, one policy
A Kansas homeowners policy typically carries two separate deductibles:
- A flat all-perils deductible, typically $1,000. It governs fire, theft, a burst pipe, a tree falling on the house in a non-wind event, and most everyday losses. This is the number most homeowners can recite.
- A separate wind/hail deductible, stated as a percentage of the Coverage A dwelling limit. The Kansas Insurance Department's own consumer guidance states that most Kansas homeowner policies carry one, generally one to two percent of the amount of insurance on the structure.
The second one is the market norm here, not an option a homeowner chose. Kansas appears alongside Texas, Oklahoma, Nebraska, Colorado, the Dakotas, Minnesota, Iowa and Missouri on the standard industry list of states where percentage wind/hail deductibles are routine practice.
What 2% actually costs you
On a $300,000 dwelling limit:
- 1% = $3,000
- 2% = $6,000
- 3% = $9,000
- 5% = $15,000
So on a hail claim, the first $6,000 at a 2% setting comes out of your pocket — six times the $1,000 you would pay on a kitchen fire, on the same policy, in the same year.
Section 4 works out that an 1,800 square foot Kansas home costs roughly $396,000 to rebuild. If your Coverage A is set correctly at that level, the same percentages get bigger:
- 1% = $3,960
- 2% = $7,920
- 3% = $11,880
- 5% = $19,800
That is the uncomfortable arithmetic of insuring to replacement cost: getting your coverage right, which you should do, also raises your storm deductible. Both facts are true and you need to plan for both.
On the 1% versus 2% question: both are widely written in Kansas and no source establishes a single modal value. 2% is used as the working figure throughout this guide because 2026 Kansas agency guidance describes carriers moving to 2% as the default in hail-exposed counties, and because Kansas illustrations are commonly written at 2% of a $300,000 limit. A 1% setting is still very common. Look at your own declarations page rather than assuming either.
The trap: the percentage is of your coverage, not your damage
This catches people everywhere percentage deductibles exist, and it deserves stating flatly. The percentage applies to the insured value of the dwelling, not to the amount of the damage. A 2% deductible on a $396,000 limit is $7,920 whether the storm did $9,000 of damage or $300,000 of damage. It is not "2% of the claim."
The consequence is that moderate hail claims — which is most hail claims — can be worth very little or nothing. If a storm does $10,000 of damage to a home with a $396,000 limit and a 2% wind/hail deductible, the insurer owes you $2,080. At 3% it owes you nothing at all, and you paid the premium anyway.
Three ways Kansas' version is harsher than a coastal state's
1. There is no named-storm trigger. A Gulf-state hurricane deductible only activates when the National Hurricane Center names a storm and issues a watch or warning. Kansas has no such gate. Any wind or hail loss invokes the percentage deductible — an ordinary thunderstorm on an ordinary weekday qualifies. The bar is not a hurricane. The bar is weather.
2. It is per occurrence, not per calendar year. Florida caps its hurricane deductible at one per season. Kansas has no such rule. Two hail events in one summer means two full deductibles. At 2% on a $396,000 limit that is $15,840 of retained loss in a single year, on a house that is nominally insured.
3. There is no statutory offer or buy-back requirement. Louisiana and Mississippi regulate these deductibles — mandating buy-back options, uniform language, disclosure. Kansas does not. This is a carrier underwriting decision, which means it can appear or change at renewal in a way you will only notice if you read the declarations page.
What to do about it this week
- Find your declarations page and locate the wind/hail deductible line. It is separate from the all-perils deductible and it is usually stated as a percentage. If you cannot find it, call your agent and ask specifically: "What is my wind and hail deductible, stated in dollars?"
- Multiply it out and write the dollar figure down. The entire failure mode here is homeowners discovering the number after the storm instead of before it.
- Ask whether the percentage runs off the Coverage A limit or the total insured value. The base matters as much as the percentage. Ask your agent directly and get it in writing.
- Ask what it would cost to buy the percentage down. Kansas does not require carriers to offer it, but many will price it. You will not know unless you ask.
3. What a standard policy covers here — and the gaps
A homeowners policy is a bundle of separate coverages, each with its own limit:
- Coverage A — Dwelling. The structure itself.
- Coverage B — Other Structures. Detached garage, shed, fence, deck. Usually about 10% of Coverage A automatically. In Kansas this matters more than it sounds: hail wrecks detached garages, fences and outbuildings, and the 10% default is often not enough on a rural or acreage property.
- Coverage C — Personal Property. Your belongings, usually 50% to 70% of Coverage A.
- Coverage D — Loss of Use. What it costs to live elsewhere while repairs happen. After a wide-area hailstorm, contractor capacity is the constraint and repairs take longer than anyone expects.
Covered perils on a standard form typically include fire, lightning, windstorm and hail (subject to the percentage deductible from Section 2), theft, vandalism, explosion, falling objects, and sudden accidental water discharge from plumbing.
The good news, stated plainly: tornado is covered
Kansas homeowners ask this constantly, and the answer is yes. Tornado damage is windstorm damage, and windstorm is a covered peril on a standard homeowners policy. There is no separate tornado policy to buy and no tornado exclusion to worry about.
The catch is not coverage, it is the deductible. A tornado claim runs through the wind/hail percentage deductible, not the flat $1,000. A total loss is still paid in full up to your Coverage A limit, less that percentage — but a partial tornado loss of $12,000 on a $396,000 limit at 2% nets you about $4,080.
The gaps that matter in Kansas
1. Flood is never covered — anywhere, by anyone's homeowners policy. This is universal across all fifty states, not a Kansas rule. No homeowners policy covers flood. Coverage is a separate purchase through the National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP) or a private flood carrier.
Kansas has no coastline, which leads to a false sense of security. What Kansas has is flash flooding, river flooding along the Kansas, Arkansas, Neosho and Missouri systems, and the very ordinary problem of a lot of rain arriving quickly on flat ground. Being outside a mapped high-risk flood zone is a statement about a flood map, not about whether your house can flood — a meaningful share of NFIP claims nationally come from outside high-risk zones.
2. Sewer and sump-pump backup is usually excluded, and this is a Kansas-relevant gap. Water that comes up through a floor drain or backs up from a saturated municipal system is not the same as water falling from the sky, and standard policies exclude it. It is available as a water backup endorsement, usually cheap, usually written at a sublimit of $5,000 to $25,000. In a state with heavy summer rainfall and a lot of finished basements, this is one of the highest-value small endorsements available. Ask for it by name.
3. Earthquake is excluded. As in almost every state, earthquake is not covered by a standard homeowners policy and requires a separate endorsement or policy. Kansans have historically dismissed this, and mostly reasonably — but south-central Kansas has experienced measurable induced seismicity associated with wastewater disposal, and the Oklahoma border region is not seismically quiet in the way it was a generation ago. This is a small-probability, ask-the-question item rather than an alarm, but it is worth knowing the standard policy does not cover it.
4. Maintenance, wear and gradual damage. Insurance covers sudden accidental loss, not deterioration. A roof that is simply worn out is not a claim. This distinction becomes the central fight in hail claims, where the adjuster's position is frequently that the granule loss predates the storm — which is exactly why documenting your roof's condition before a storm season is worth doing.
5. Ordinance or law. The extra cost of rebuilding to current building code rather than as originally built. On older Kansas housing stock this can be a large number, particularly for electrical, insulation and structural connections. It is normally available as an endorsement and it is normally not included by default. Ask for it.
6. Mold, beyond limited sublimits, is typically capped or excluded.
4. Making sure you have enough coverage
The most consequential number on your policy is your Coverage A limit, and the most common way it goes wrong is setting it to your home's market value or your mortgage balance.
Neither is right. Dwelling coverage should equal the cost to rebuild your home from the foundation up at today's construction prices. Market value includes land, which does not burn and does not blow away. Your mortgage balance is a financing number with no relationship to construction cost at all.
The Kansas version of this mistake runs the opposite direction from the coasts
In Hawaii or California, land is most of the price, so insuring to market value means wildly over-insuring. In Kansas it is usually the reverse. Land is cheap, construction is not, and the arithmetic below shows why.
Kansas' median home price is $304,048. Rebuilding an 1,800 square foot home runs roughly $396,000 at the state's midpoint construction cost. That is $92,000 more than the median house sells for.
Read that again, because it is the single most useful sentence in this section for a Kansas homeowner: in much of Kansas, it costs more to rebuild your house than to buy your house. If you set Coverage A to what you paid, or to what Zillow says, or to what the county assessor says, you are very likely underinsured — and Section 4's coinsurance arithmetic explains exactly what that costs you.
Working a real Kansas example
Rebuilding in Kansas runs roughly $220 per square foot — the midpoint of a published $160 to $280 band covering materials, labor, and general contractor overhead and profit, excluding land.
On an 1,800 square foot home:
- 1,800 x $220 = $396,000 to rebuild
Take the band seriously:
- At $160/sq ft: $288,000
- At $280/sq ft: $504,000
That is a $216,000 spread on the same house. And there is a specific limitation worth stating rather than burying: this source publishes coarse regional cost bands, and Kansas shares its exact $160-$280 range with Arizona, Colorado, Georgia, Iowa, Montana, Nebraska, North Dakota and South Dakota. It is a regional band applied to Kansas, not a Kansas-specific survey. No Kansas building department or insurance regulator publishes a competing figure to check it against.
Two other national construction-cost series put Kansas at $162 and $149 per square foot — materially lower. They are not being hidden here, and they are not being averaged in either, because they are measuring a narrower quantity: both series land near a $162 national average, which is the construction-cost figure that excludes general contractor overhead and profit. Your rebuild will include a general contractor's overhead and profit, so the higher figure is the right one for insurance purposes.
The practical instruction: get an actual replacement-cost estimate for your specific home from your carrier or an independent estimator. The per-square-foot rule of thumb is for sanity-checking a number someone hands you, not for setting your policy.
The 80% coinsurance rule, and what a shortfall does to a partial claim
Most homeowners policies contain a coinsurance provision requiring you to insure the dwelling to at least 80% of its full replacement cost. Fall below that and the insurer does not merely cap your payout at your limit — it reduces every partial claim proportionally.
Work it on the Kansas example. Full replacement cost $396,000, so the 80% threshold is $316,800. Suppose you carry the $300,000 reference limit instead — a figure that looks generous next to a $304,048 median home price — and a hailstorm does $100,000 of damage.
Your limit is three times the loss. It feels safe. It is not:
- $300,000 carried / $316,800 required = 0.947
- 0.947 x $100,000 = $94,697
- Then subtract your wind/hail deductible — $6,000 at 2% of $300,000
- Net payment: about $88,697 on a $100,000 loss
You are roughly $11,300 short on a claim well inside your policy limit, entirely because Coverage A was set slightly too low. That gap is modest here because $300,000 is only just under the threshold. Push the shortfall further and it compounds fast: carry $250,000 on the same $396,000 home and the ratio is 0.789, paying $78,914 before the deductible and about $72,914 after it — $27,000 short.
None of this is visible until you file.
Two endorsements worth asking about by name
- Extended replacement cost — pays a stated percentage above your Coverage A limit (commonly 25% to 50%) when rebuilding costs more than the estimate. After a wide-area hail or tornado event, local contractor demand spikes and material costs move; this endorsement exists precisely for that.
- Ordinance or law coverage — as above, the cost of rebuilding to current code rather than as originally built.
5. Roof age, and why it decides your premium and your payout
An honest limitation first. Kansas does not impose a statewide roof-settlement standard by statute, so this site's Kansas data file records the settlement basis as "varies." Whether your roof is paid at replacement cost or depreciated value is set by your policy form, your carrier's underwriting rules, and above all your roof's age.
That makes this section a list of things to go find out rather than a description of what you have. In a state that recorded 375 major hail events in 2025 — second in the country, behind only Texas at 902 — it is the most financially consequential homework on this page.
The distinction that decides your check: ACV versus RCV
- Replacement cost value (RCV) pays what it costs to put a new roof on today.
- Actual cash value (ACV) pays replacement cost minus depreciation for the roof's age.
Roofing depreciation typically runs about 2.5% to 4% per year. On a fifteen-year-old roof that is 37.5% to 60% of the value depreciated away. The insurer pays 40% to 62.5% of replacement cost, and you fund the rest — then your wind/hail deductible comes off the top of that reduced amount.
Put numbers on it. Assume a roof that costs $30,000 to replace. (That is an assumption for the arithmetic, not a Kansas statistic — get your own number from a local roofer.) On a $396,000 dwelling limit with a 2% wind/hail deductible of $7,920:
- RCV settlement: $30,000 - $7,920 = $22,080 paid
- ACV at 37.5% depreciation: $18,750 - $7,920 = $10,830 paid
- ACV at 60% depreciation: $12,000 - $7,920 = $4,080 paid
Same storm, same roof, same policy limit. The difference between the top and bottom line is $18,000 out of your pocket, and it is decided entirely by two lines of policy language you have probably never read.
The two mechanisms Kansas carriers actually use
1. The ACV roof-surfacing endorsement. Known in the industry by its ISO form number HO 04 93 and by carrier equivalents, this rewrites the loss-settlement terms so that wind and hail damage to roof surfacing is paid depreciated. Two things about it matter enormously:
- Carriers commonly attach it at new business when your roof is already too old to qualify for replacement-cost coverage. You may have signed up for it without a conversation.
- It is absolute. It keeps applying even after you replace the roof, unless it is affirmatively removed from the policy. A homeowner who puts a brand-new roof on and assumes replacement-cost settlement has been restored is frequently wrong.
That second point is the single most actionable item in this guide. If you replaced your roof and did not call your agent to have the ACV endorsement removed, call them now. It is a phone call, and on the next hailstorm it can be worth five figures.
2. The roof payment schedule. A separate mechanism that pays a declining percentage of replacement cost by roof age — full value on a new roof, a substantially reduced share past roughly ten to fifteen years. It functions like the ACV endorsement but with a published table instead of a depreciation calculation.
Look on your declarations page and endorsement schedule for: "roof surfaces," "windstorm or hail loss to roof surfacing," "actual cash value loss settlement — roof," or any table of percentages keyed to roof age.
Roof condition is also what keeps you insurable
Roof age is a leading underwriting factor, and in Kansas it is frequently a gating factor rather than a pricing one. Many carriers will not write a composition roof past a certain age at all, or will write it only on an ACV basis. An older roof can move you from "expensive" to "declined," and a non-renewal after a hail season is a genuinely bad position to be in when every other carrier is tightening at the same time.
If your roof is nearing the end of its life, replacing it before renewal is frequently the difference between a quote and a non-renewal notice. Impact-resistant (Class 4) shingles carry premium credits in most hail states, and Kansas carriers commonly offer them. Ask for the credit by name and ask what documentation the carrier needs to apply it.
6. If no carrier will write you
Kansas has a backstop. Know what it is and, just as importantly, know what it is not.
The Kansas FAIR Plan
The Kansas FAIR Plan, operated as the Kansas All-Industry Placement Facility (ksfairplan.com), is the state's insurer of last resort. It is a not-for-profit association formed by Kansas insurers to write basic property coverage for applicants who cannot obtain it in the voluntary market. The Kansas Insurance Department confirms its existence, purpose and eligibility standard, and Kansas is one of the 33 states plus DC that operate a FAIR plan.
What it is not, stated plainly:
1. It is not a homeowners policy. It is a property-only form. Theft and personal liability are available as options rather than being built in the way they are on a standard HO-3. If you are placed here, you must ask for liability coverage specifically, and you should — a residual-market property policy with no liability is a real exposure.
2. Its valuation is capped in a way that matters enormously in a hail state. FAIR Plan coverage cannot exceed 100% of actual cash value or present market value, whichever is less, and cannot exceed a recent purchase price absent evidence of increased value.
Sit with the second half of that. Actual cash value means depreciated. On an older Kansas home with a fifteen-year-old roof, an ACV-capped policy is structurally unable to pay replacement cost on anything — not just the roof. And the "or present market value, whichever is less" clause collides directly with Section 4's central Kansas fact: rebuild cost frequently exceeds market value here. An 1,800 square foot home that costs $396,000 to rebuild but sells for $304,048 cannot be insured to its rebuild cost on the FAIR Plan. The cap is the market value, and the gap is yours.
3. Its rates are not competitive. Residual markets are priced to be the last resort, not a shopping option.
The honest framing
The Kansas FAIR Plan is protection against having nothing, not protection against being underinsured. If you can still buy in the voluntary market, you will almost always do better there — narrower form, capped valuation, and higher price all point the same direction.
The corollary is a strategic one. Because the FAIR Plan is a materially worse product, staying insurable in the voluntary market has real financial value, and the things that keep you there are the same things in Section 7: roof age, claims frequency, and maintenance. Filing a marginal $4,000 hail claim that nets you almost nothing after a $6,000 deductible — and it will net you nothing, because the deductible exceeds the claim — while marking your loss history is how people end up on the FAIR Plan. Do the arithmetic before you call.
7. How to actually lower your premium in Kansas
Ranked roughly by how much they move the number in this state specifically.
1. Deal with your roof, in both directions. This is the highest-leverage item in Kansas and it has two halves. If your roof is old, replacing it before renewal frequently moves you from an ACV settlement basis to a replacement-cost one, unlocks credits, and keeps you insurable. And if you have already replaced it, call your agent and confirm the ACV roof endorsement has been removed — it survives the new roof unless someone takes it off. Also ask specifically about the impact-resistant (Class 4) shingle credit if your new roof qualifies.
2. Choose the wind/hail deductible deliberately, in dollars. Moving from 1% to 2% on a $396,000 limit lowers your premium and raises your exposure from $3,960 to $7,920. That is a rational trade if you have $7,920 liquid and would genuinely spend it on a repair. It is a bad trade if you do not. Do the multiplication before you agree to a percentage — and remember it is per occurrence, so budget for the possibility of two in one year.
3. Get Coverage A right. Because Kansas rebuild cost frequently exceeds market value, a surprising number of Kansas homeowners are underinsured while believing they are generously covered. Get a real replacement-cost estimate. This one usually raises your premium slightly — it is on this list because premium is not the objective, cost-per-unit-of-actual-protection is, and a policy that pays 79 cents on the dollar of a partial claim is expensive at any price.
4. Raise the flat all-perils deductible. Going from $1,000 to $2,500 lowers premium and only affects non-wind claims — fire, theft, water. Given that your wind/hail deductible is already $6,000 or more, a $1,000 flat deductible is buying you protection on a narrow slice of your actual risk. This is often the cleanest premium reduction available.
5. Stop filing small claims. In a state where the wind/hail deductible is $6,000 at 2%, most hail claims below roughly $8,000 are simply not worth filing — the payout is small and the loss-history entry is permanent. Claims frequency drives both pricing and non-renewal. Paying a $5,000 repair yourself is frequently strictly better than a claim that nets you nothing and marks your record for five years.
6. Bundle home and auto. Multi-policy discounts remain among the largest routinely available, and in a market where carriers are tightening appetite, being a multi-line customer helps on the underwriting side as well as the pricing side.
7. Ask about mitigation credits item by item. Beyond impact-resistant shingles: reinforced roof decking and sheathing attachment, hail-resistant siding and gutters, updated electrical and plumbing on older homes, and monitored alarm systems. Carriers do not always apply these automatically. Ask which ones require an inspection to document, and get the credit confirmed in writing on the renewal.
8. Fix your credit-based insurance score. Kansas permits credit-based insurance scoring, and it moves homeowners premiums more than most people expect — recall that the cheapest of the three source figures above assumed "good credit and no prior claims." This is slow but it compounds.
9. Add the water backup endorsement anyway. This raises your spend rather than lowering it, and it belongs here for the same reason flood does: the cheapest premium is worthless if the loss you actually suffer is excluded. A sewer backup into a finished Kansas basement is a common, expensive, and entirely excluded loss without the endorsement, which usually costs very little.
10. Re-shop every year, and compare the right four things. Line up: the premium, the Coverage A limit, the wind/hail deductible percentage, and the roof settlement basis (RCV or ACV). A quote that beats yours on premium while quietly moving you from 1% to 3% wind/hail and from replacement cost to actual cash value on the roof is not a better quote. It is a worse policy at a lower price, and in Kansas that specific swap is the most common way a "savings" turns into a five-figure loss.
What to do next
If you want these numbers applied to your actual house rather than a statewide average, the Kansas premium calculator estimates your annual cost from your own dwelling limit and deductible. The replacement cost calculator works out the Coverage A limit you actually need from your home's square footage using Kansas construction costs — the number to check first, given how often Kansas rebuild cost runs above Kansas market value. And because the wind/hail percentage deductible is what decides your real out-of-pocket exposure on the claim you are most likely to file, the deductible calculator converts 1%, 2%, 3% and 5% into actual dollars against your specific dwelling limit.
All three show every figure they use and where it came from.
This guide is general information about homeowners insurance in Kansas, based on publicly available figures current as of August 2026. It is not an insurance quote, a policy, coverage advice, or legal advice, and it does not reflect your individual property, county, roof age, claims history, or carrier's specific policy language. Premiums, deductible structures, and underwriting rules vary substantially by carrier and by property. For coverage specific to your home, speak with a licensed Kansas insurance agent; for regulatory questions or complaints, contact the Kansas Insurance Department.